Friday, April 25th.
After breakfast we started out on a four hour drive east out of Ashgabat. We drove across the Kara-Kum, or Black Sand Desert, where we saw a few sand dune areas and a couple of camels, but mostly just flat desolate land. There were fields that were irrigated by the canal. Elias had told us that the Caspian Sea is headed the way of the Aral Sea that has all but disappeared due to the over use by people and is now a vast area of sand and wasteland dotted with stranded boats. Now the drive seabed is covered in salt and sand that blows with the wind causing huge health problems for people in the wind’s path. There have been increased levels of lung diseases, kidney stones, birth defects and birth deaths. When several countries share a river or landlocked sea it puts great pressure on it as people take water from it. Apparently the Taliban, for example, have built a 100km canal from the Caspian for water for Afghanistan and plan to build another this year. Irrigating with sea water is a huge problem as the salt water pollutes or poisons the soils and fields and eventually crops will not grow. Already we can see the salt residue on the surface of the land. Ashgabat gets no rain for months and yet they irrigate everywhere to keep the city green and lush. The president has dictated that they need to plant as many trees as possible in the area as they are at the base of the Kopet-Dag mountain range and he hopes this will create a microclimate and bring rain to the area. It all makes me think of the prediction that future wars will not be about oil but water. The country is ranked as one of the driest in the world and it’s getting worse. The nomads of the area are having difficulty with the feed for their animals. We saw a herd of about 100 domestic camels walking along the edge of the fence. We stopped there and watched up close as they passed by grunting and trudging towards a canal where they’d be watered. We also saw a few nomads begging for food by the side of the road and a couple of flocks of sheep with nomadic herdsmen. On our journey we stopped at three of the new ‘oases’ of the desert: modern petrol stations, along this recently constructed, newly paved 3 lane autobahn. One of them had two full sized snooker tables and a reception area for weddings. We stopped for the toilet facilities. We arrived in Mary, Elias’s home town, for lunch. We ate at a ‘fast food’ establishment and we had our choice of food. John and I shared a bowl of lentil soup and a falafel sandwich. After lunch we went to the vast expanse of ancient Merv, a UNESCO World Heritage Site which is the ancient and historic gateway to the famed Silk Road. Situated in a strategically significant location, Merv has witnessed the rise and fall of numerous civilizations, serving as a vital hub for cultural exchange and political power. It is claimed that in the 12th century, Merv briefly held the title of the world's largest city, a testament to its historical importance. Our exploration began at the Hellenistic fortress of Gaiyur Kala, with its testament to the city's early history and its connections to the Greek Empire. We then continued to the sites of Erk Kala and Sultan Kala, remnants of the city's later periods. As we wandered through these ancient ruins, we were transported back in time and we tried imagining the bustling streets, bustling markets, and towering structures that once dominated this landscape. The sense of history is palpable, and the scale of the ancient city is truly awe-inspiring. Our journey culminated at the impressive mausoleum of Sultan Sanjar, one of the most powerful Khorezmian rulers. This magnificent monument stands as a testament to the sultan's legacy and the grandeur of his reign. As we explored the mausoleum's intricate architecture and admired the intricate carvings, we gained a deeper appreciation of the rich cultural heritage of the region we met a family of pilgrims who had come from a distant city as part of their heritage. Then we headed back and out for a group dinner before heading back to the room for the night.
That’s a lot of desert! Fascinating to read about the greening of it. H very wise on the food. The lentils will still give you plenty of win. All the best, Bruce
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