Half Moon Bay and Deception Island, South Shetlands Islands

Chinstrap penguin...

and rookery.

Territorial dispute.

Massive glacial ice.

Humpback tail.

Another abandoned whaling station.

Gorgeous skies.

Rachel, John, Bruce, me and Alice after a rousing game of darts.

Blaise Guld.

Thursday, November 7^th.

Happy Moose Day to John Midgely

South Shetland Islands

We were woken at 6:30 and immediately headed up to the top deck to see the vistas. What a gorgeous day and what a gorgeous place, Half Moon Bay, South Shetland Islands. The conditions could not be better. Full sun and -2 degrees. We are going to land shortly. We spent a half hour outside before breakfast and then anxiously waited for our chance. We boarded our Zodiac and headed off into this pristine wilderness. The team had set up a couple of routes for us to follow. We walked on fairly hard packed snow to an incredible viewpoint where there was a small colony of chinstrap penguins breeding. They make a lot of noise in their courtship. I walked around revelling in the warm sunny spring temperatures, most of us were overdressed. Later I took a Zodiac ride with a group for a tour around the iceberg by our ship and to see a Weddell seal that was lying on the snow. Then it was unfortunately back to the ship. 

While we were having lunch, we began a two hour sail to Deception Island. As we approached, we all went on deck to watch the captain navigate the narrows into the inner Whaler’s Harbour which is a collapsed caldera of this oceanic volcano. Quite spectacular as we entered the narrows. Inside there was another abandoned whaling station. This is the island that Shackelton tried to get to when he sailed out in the lifeboats before he decided because of the wind and currents to sail to Elephant Island instead.

John and I wandered off to see the whaling station and around the beach. There was not much in the way of wildlife but we did find a few Gentoo penguins swimming in the shallows, a Weddell seal laying on the beach, another seal swimming in the shallow and one Gentoo who seemed to be following us. Then we went for a walk along the beach to Neptune’s Window for a view of the sea and a large rock where a few birds were nesting. Then we went back. There was an opportunity to go for a polar swim. My FOMO abandoned me. I had no interest. John waffled back and forth especially as the wind was bitterly cold. But, eventually he did do it. I knew he would, far too much testosterone! Then back to the boat.

After recap and briefing, we had dinner. And then it was time for another concert by Blaise in the Polar Bear Bar. He was going to play a song for me so I went early. John, Bruce and I enjoyed a couple of beer, some lively conversation, even some dancing and silliness, but alas he never played my song. However, he did have a great time with the lively crowd and played for a half hour longer than he was supposed to. Really fun evening!