Samarkand CIty Tour

The excavated tool at the Observatory of Ulugbek where he took accurate measures.

Taking measurements of time and stars.

Frescos found in the ancient Afrasiab complex.

The mausoleums of Shah-i Zinda.

We check them out.

The interiors and ceilings are incredibly ornate.

This is now my screensaver on my phone.

 

A private prayer.

Interesting reading.

Bibi Khanum Mosque of Amir Timur.

A local and tourist market where we bought some snacks.

Bombs away!

 

Amanda Baker, the leader on our Crotia and Slovenia tour. 

Wednesday, April 30th.

Today, we embarked on a full-day exploration of Samarkand, a city steeped in history and renowned as the "Rome of the Orient." Its origins date back to a time when Rome and Babylon were mere fledglings, underscoring its enduring significance. Our exploration began at the Observatory of Ulugbek (who was the leader and a scientist), a remarkable astronomical observatory established by the grandson of Tamerlane. Here, we delve into the fascinating world of pre-telescope astronomy, marveling at Ulugbek's groundbreaking achievements in the 15th century. He was able to chart numerous stars and calculated the length of the year to within a few seconds. His discoveries predate Galileo by about a hundred years. We delved deeper into Samarkand's ancient past when we visited the museum located at the archaeological site of Afrosiab. This ancient settlement, dating back to the 8th-early 7th centuries BC, occupies a vast area protected by natural barriers. During the Achaemenid period, the city was fortified with a massive wall, complete with an internal corridor and towers. Scholars believe that Afrasiab corresponds to the ancient Sogdian capital, Marakanda, which was tragically destroyed by Alexander the Great in the 4th century BC. Here in the archeological ruins they discover an 11x11 metre room decorated with beautiful frescos depicting scenes of various travelers from the east and west meeting and trading at this site. Scholars were excited as it proved the importance of Samarkand as a major hub on the Silk Road where goods, spices, silks, ideas, knowledge and technologies were exchanged. We also visited the regal mausoleums of Shah-i Zinda, a sacred Islamic shrine that has attracted pilgrims for centuries. This area is as impressive as Registon Square. There are more mausoleums and towers here. It was fascinating watching people of many different cultures all exploring the site. Then we walked to the Bibi Khanum Mosque, a magnificent architectural masterpiece that was commissioned by Tamerlane's wife, Bibi Khanum. This grand structure, with its towering minaret and intricate mosaics, stands as a testament to the city's former glory. It was built hastily over five years and as a result is in disrepair in some spots and is not in use as a mosque any longer and we were not allowed in parts of it for safety reasons. Next, to it was a large market that we had free time to explore. John and I bought some nuts, nugget and other snacks. I jokingly said we are going to see which we get first, a stomach ache or a toothache. Then we went as a group for a vegetarian lunch as we’d been eating a lot of meat. John and I bought a pair of Silk Road t-shirts to commemorate this trip. The rest of the afternoon was ours to enjoy. John and I caught up with our emails and the blog and then went for a swim. We went for a beer in the lobby and met up with Amanda Baker, my guide from the Croatia trip. We had a beer together and then she went to dinner with her group and we went to dinner with two others to a local restaurant that was better than any we’d been to. The food was excellent. Then back to the hotel for the night.

Registon Square, Samarkand

The ribbed domes were Persian influenced.

The incredible art of the ceiling.

A photo of the complex before the reconstruction.

The sanctity of he inner courtyard.

An imagined lesson in the madrasas.

What a place to sit and absorb.

John finally graduates.

The Mausoleum of Amir Timur, a major conquerer of central Asia.

and the interior.

A traditional meal starting with little salads...

cooking the PLOV

The presentation... it's all boiled.

Tuesday, April 29th.

Today, we began our day with a leisurely visit to Registan Square, a captivating oasis of tranquility amidst the bustling city of Samarkand. This iconic square, often likened to the Wonders of the World, is a testament to the city's architectural grandeur. Three majestic madrassas adorn Registan Square, each a masterpiece of Islamic architecture. To the west stands the Ulug Bek Madrassah, built between 1417 and 1420, a testament to the intellectual pursuits of its namesake. To the east, the Tilya-Kori Madrassah, constructed between 1646 and 1660, dazzles with its intricate golden mosaics and ornate decorations. Between these two architectural marvels lies the Sher-Dor Madrassah, built between 1619 and 1636, renowned for its majestic lions depicted on its facade. As we explore these magnificent madrassas, we are immersed in a world of artistry and craftsmanship. The once-grand educational

institutions now serve as vibrant cultural centers, showcasing a variety of arts and crafts demonstrations. We admired the intricate details of the architecture, marvelled at the old photographs that capture the monuments before their Soviet reconstruction, and explored through the diverse collection of handicrafts on display. Then we went to a silk paper making business. The Chinese used silk from silkworms and guarded the secret of the method carefully. The people in central Asia used the fibres of the Mullberry tree. The strands were pulled apart, soaked in water and pounded into a pulp and then dried in thin layers which gave them their first writing paper. We were dropped off in an area of the city where there were a number of restaurant where we could eat lunch. John and I bought a few things from a little grocery store and walked around the area while eating and watching like in Samarkand. After lunch we visited the Mausoleum of Amir Timur(whose western name is Tamerlane), a revered figure in Central Asian history. This imposing structure, adorned with exquisite tilework and adorned with the legendary "Black Stone of Timur," is a place of pilgrimage and a symbol of the city's historical significance. The complex boasts a collection of ornate mausoleums, each with its own unique architectural style and historical significance. Then we went back to the hotel for a couple of hours. John and I caught up with emails and I blogged some, before we went outside for a ‘swim’ in the hotel pool. Then we were gathered up and taken for dinner at a unique restaurant that seemed more like the inner courtyard of someone’s house. There we were shown the way that they make the national traditional meal Plov. It is basically a boiled stew of carrots, potatoes, meat and rice with a few spices. First we were served some salads and bread and then the plov. When we left there we were dropped off at Registon Square to see the madrassas lit up and then there was supposed to be a laser show that never materialized, so we went back to our room for the night. (nevertheless it was still a spectacular sight).

Burkhara and Bullet Train to Samarkand

The Emirates Summer Palace.

A woman I was watching, turns out she has live in New York for 10 years and is here to visit her family.

Uzbekis love to talk to us and pose for us.

The bullet train to Samarkand.

The desert terrain we passed.

Rail crossing waiting for us.

The biggest kabob I've ever seen.

The beautiful Registon Square with the night light show.

The flashing light show.

 Monday, April 28th.

Today, we started our day with a leisurely visit to Sitorai Mokhi-Khosa, the former summer residence of the last Emir of Bukhara. This picturesque oasis, nestled amidst lush gardens and tranquil ponds, offers a glimpse into the opulent lifestyle of the city's royal family. The history of Sitorai Mokhi-Khosa dates back to the mid-19th century, during the reign of Emir Nasrullakhan. It was under his rule that the first structures in this idyllic location were established. However, it was his successor, Muzaffarkhan, who truly transformed Sitorai Mokhi-Khosa into a magnificent summer palace. Driven by his love for his wife Sitora-bonu, Muzaffarkhan spared no expense in creating a sumptuous retreat. The most skilled craftsmen from Bukhara were sent to Russia to learn the finest techniques of country residence construction. Upon their return, they embarked on a grand project to build a series of opulent rooms, including a breathtaking throne room. The resulting palace is a harmonious blend of European and Asian architectural styles, reflecting the eclectic tastes of its royal occupants. I bought a cheap little bracelet there. Then we returned to our hotel in Bukhara where we had some free time. John and I went for a wander and found a coffee shop and enjoyed an Americana, before going back again and checking out. Our group boarded the bus for the 30 minute ride to the train station. Our luggage is going on a 6 hour bus ride while we enjoy a two hour bullet train ride to Samarkand. Riding the train is a great way to avoid the 38 degree temperatures. We rode past flat desolate lands interspersed with irrigated fields, some animal husbandry and some small nondescript towns. We passed a large artificial lake or reserve that collects water and snow runoff from the mountains and this is where the water comes from to irrigate all this desert area. When we got to Samarkand we were met by our tour bus and driven to our local dinner restaurant. Alex had booked it as a ‘surprise’. It turned out that we were sitting at a very long table where we ate our salads and had a drink while they put some metal holders on the table. Then there was a lot of loud singing and clapping from waiters and a group of children and two men brought in a very long pole with bbq’d ground beef wrapped on it. They placed it on the supports on our table and while they were cutting it lengthwise to let us get it off the pole we were encouraged to stand up and dance. Lots of fun and noise. The meat was like a hamburger without the bun or toppings. After we ate we were transferred to our hotel for a nicely-placed 3-night stay. We are staying very close to the Registon Square, which is world famous and the one thing above all that I wanted to see in this area. Alex told us that there would be a light show there at 8 and told us how to get there. For some reason only John, Pauline and I decided to go. What an incredible place. Absolutely gorgeous with three Madrasas on three sides of a large square. They were lit up with beautiful complimentary lights. We wandered around taking photos, and were totally in awe. Then we noticed lots of people standing and sitting on the fourth side of the square, so we joined them and then began the light show. It didn’t really enhance the setting and made it a bit too Disney-like, and maybe sacrilegious too to my mind. Anyway we were very glad we went it was well worth it. Tomorrow we go during the daylight and have a history lesson. Back to the hotel to upload pictures and sleep. John and I have a room with three single beds, so we have a luggage buffer between us like in our tent in Africa 15 years ago!