Scenes from the fishing village of Gopalpur.
Sister meets brother who is home from school early because of the heat.
Getting my pants repaired.
Shave my head please.
Turtle skull.
Women coming to meet the men hauling in the nets.
Jellyfish.
His share of the catch.
Putting the nets away...
and heading home.
Friday, April 6th.
I was up by 6:30 and hung around the lobby
reading ‘Gut’ before everyone came down for a late breakfast. At 9:00 Pulak
took us for a walk into Gopalpur, which is a small fishing village. This area used
to be a trading port with the Portuguese, Dutch, and English. There are several
old colonial buildings that have fallen into ruins, including a ‘mansion’ right
in front of our motel.
We walked the narrow streets and observed
the locals doing their thing. Pulak talked to a lot of them and they welcomed
us. Nico took videos of everything for his future video. He even ran after kids
who were playing with a stick and a bicycle tire. Pulak found a lady tailor
working out of a little shack who stitched up my brown shorts, as they are
falling apart. I hope to make them last for a bit until I can buy a new pair in
Kathmandu or Bangkok. I have one other pair, but they are heavier material and
too warm for this heat. She wanted nothing to repair them, I gave her 100
rupee, about two dollars Canadian. Right beside the tailor was a barber and
Pulak decided to get a much needed shave. So, I decided to get my head shaved
by a local again, this time for 50 rupee and a 50 rupee tip.
Then we headed back to the motel about
noon to chill and hide from the heat for a bit. Nico and I chilled out in the
room with our AC. At 2:00 I decided to head over to the beach and maybe have a
swim. When I got there it was quite windy and the sea was pretty rough, so I
decided to just go for a wander. I walked north on the hard packed sand just at
the edge of the waves to where Pulak had told me I would find a little inlet.
There were a number of local fishing boats there but nothing going on, so I
walked back. I came across a crow eating something, so I went to look. It was a
large turtle that had been dead a long time. As I walked all the extreme edge
of where the water can reach, I found about five carcasses of dead turtles. Not
sure what killed any of them. Maybe they laid eggs and then got caught on the
beach by the hot sun, or maybe they were injured or drown in nets. Whatever it
was it was sad to see.
As I got the area by my hotel, I could see
fisherman pulling in a net ahead. When I got there there were a number of men
gathered around the net and I could see that the catch consisted of a few small
fish and a large number of jellyfish. I stood around and watched as the men
sorted the fish from the jellyfish, which they just threw on the sand. The
biggest fish were about a foot long and most were well under that. The nets
they use are so fine, that catch even the smallest of fish, which will never
grow up to be a reasonably sized fish later. I don’t know if this is an
accurate reflection of the daily fish catch, but if it is, then this area has
been thoroughly overfished. I watched as they divided up the fish amongst
themselves. Each man got about three or four small fish. They just ignored me.
There were women gathered around as well with large baskets which they hoped to
fill with the catch, but there wasn’t enough and most of them went away over
the beach and back to the village empty handed.
I walked back again and decided I had no
interest in swimming in this water and all those jellyfish. I went back to the
hotel to shower. At 5:00 we met up in the lobby and followed Pulak to a five
star hotel on the other side of the village. Euan wanted to have a last couple
of beer with us as his part in our journey is coming to an edge the day after
tomorrow. We sat in a very cold airconditioned bar in the hotel, had a few
snacks and a couple of beer, and talked. Euan and Liz decided to grab some
street food on the way back, and the rest of us went to a little roadside
restaurant and had vegetable chowmin (their spelling) for 50 rupee (less than a
dollar). Then we had a coronet ice cream and headed back to the motel.
I sat outside and
typed for a bit and then Pulak came down and gave me a couple of videos he had
taken of the tribal dances. I headed off to bed about 11:00.
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