A bicycle tour through the countryside...
and local villages.
A professional coconut climber, who harvests and trims dead fronds.
Animals are everywhere.
Our local lunch stop.
Langur and baby.
The laundry business.
Every village has a pond for washing and bathing.
A beautiful house in the painter's village.
Konark Sun Temple.
One of twelve wheels around its base.
Monday, April 9th.
After a quick breakfast, Pulak picked us
up in his company car with his driver and we drove to his house/office. We were
going on a bicycle tour. The idea of riding a bicycle here, I must admit was a
bit daunting but, nothing ventured nothing experienced (or something like that).
The bikes were brand new hybrid type Riverside bikes with no gears. We set off
on small back roads and trails, all of which were either paved or cemented, but
there were lots of speed bumps and the usual obstacles: cows, dogs,
pedestrians, motorbikes, tuk tuks and the odd car. But, it was much better than
the bigger roads.
We rode for about three hours, through
some lovely countryside and several small villages. We watched the locals
farming, socializing, making bricks, fetching water, herding goats, bathing,
doing laundry and climbing coconut trees. Yes, we saw a man whose profession is
climbing coconut trees. He said he climbing up to fifty a day. Apparently, this
is a dying profession. The trees are climbed to harvest the coconuts and prune
the tree removing dead fronds that could potentially hurt someone if they fell
on them. Further on we watched a man weaving the fronds into matts. All along
the way Pulak stopped to interact with the locals. He travels through here with
tourists regularly and has made many connections with the people. We talked to
a kindergarten teacher while her charges sat and ate the lunch outside. We saw
a couple of langur monkeys. We watched a brickmaker making bricks. He was very
efficient and although he made them individually in a one brick mould, he made
about four bricks per minute and then would carry them across the yard, pop
them out of the moulds and bring them back to start again. As we watched I
thought that the man worked hard, with no opportunity for retirement or pension
and would probably work until he died. Every village has a pond or pool that is
fed from ground water. They are used for washing clothes, bathing and cooling
off from the heat. Some of them look fairly clean, others are obviously
polluted or congested with weeds. The women bathe fully clothed and the men usually
keep their privates covered. We came to a river where there was obviously a
laundry business or a community laundry collective. There were dozens of lines
all hung with bed sheets, sarees and clothes. There were people standing in the
water and beating clothes on rocks. Looking at the river, I wondered if they
were beating the dirt out of the material or beating it into the material.
We stopped at a little shop for lunch,
which was beans and deep fried potato pieces on a grain like couscous and a
masala chai (a tea with milk and sugar and spiced with dry basil, nutmeg, dry
ginger, green cardamom and black pepper). Shortly after that we left the bikes
with a truck and walked a bit to the painter’s village, which is a little
community where some painters live. They paint temples and patterns on houses.
The village was small and had numerous painted houses and a few shops selling
touristy stuff.
At that point, it was very hot and Liz and
Will decided to head back to the hotel. Nico and I went with Pulak and his
driver to the World Heritage site of the Konark Sun Temple. It was about an
hour drive and we stopped at a little restaurant for lunch. The Konark Temple is
an 11th century sandstone temple with hundreds of intricate carvings
of gods, dancers, and some kama sutra positions. There are six large carved
wheels on either side of the main building and people believe it was meant to
be a large chariot. Unfortunately, its position near the sea has caused it to
be weathered quite badly and the large stupa at the rear has collapsed. The
whole complex was abandoned when the Buddhists fell into decline when the
Hindus took over, and it was lost and buried beneath sand. It wasn’t
‘rediscovered’ until the British were in power. As a result the carvings,
although impressive are weathered and look brittle. The main building is
surrounded on three sides by scaffolding, but according to Pulak little
restoration is happening, probably from lack of funds from UNESCO, since Trump
pulled the US out. We wandered around there for an hour in the blazing heat,
before going back to the hotel where we immediately made use of the pool.
I used the spare time to get the hotel to
print nine documents I need for upcoming trips, flight tickets and hotel and
trip vouchers.
We met up for dinner at 7:00 at the bakery
next door where we said goodbye to Pulak. He is an amazing man and has been a
wealth of information to us. Will, Liz, Nico and I had pizza and were joined by
Tomo, who wanted to say goodbye to us.
Then we were off to bed as we have a very
early start tomorrow.
How nice to be bicycling thru India!
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