The Dutch Palace.
A mural painting in the palace.
The touristy shopping area.
The Cochin Jewish Synagogue.
Chinese fishing nets.
Local fishermen fixing their nets.
Fishermen who asked me to take their picture.
The catch.
St. Francis Catholic Church.
A neighbourhood street.
The Kathakali Show.
Thursday, March 8th.
Today we had a tour of the Kochi area. We visited a
number of different sites. Thoufeeq had hired a local guide named Peter, who
was excellent and provided us with lots of information. The first stop was what
was called the ‘Dutch Palace’. It was originally built by the Portuguese in
1555 and given to the local king, Vera Kerala Varma, in order to pacify and
compensate him after they had plundered a temple in the area. Then followed the
Dutch and then the British, who either destroyed it or remodelled it. The royal
family used it for about two hundred years before they were removed from power,
after which they faded into professional careers as lawyers and doctors. We
were allowed to take photos in the first room (where the painting I took was)
but we were not allowed to take pictures in the museum section of the palace,
but the walls were covered in murals that dated back 2 or 3 hundred years and
depicted the story of the god Shiva and lesser gods. The ceilings were all made
from teak. There was a whole section on the family tree of the maharaja and his
descendants.
Our next stop was in ‘Jew Town’. We visited the
Paradesi Synagogue which was built in 1568 by descendants of Spain, Dutch and
other European Jews. It has served as a functioning synagogue throughout the
centuries and ‘preserves a unique record of Jewish presence in India. We were
not allowed to take photos inside, but the floor was covered in blue tiles from
China, the ceiling had dozens of chandeliers from Venice, which shows the
amount of trade that happened in this region. The Jews were very successful
traders and brokered deals from the both the east and the west.
Next was the Chinese fishing nets on the shore of the
Arabian Sea. These are large wooden structures which are raised and lowered
using rock counterweights and man power. The large square net is allowed to
sink below the surface, sit there for a while and then raised again, hopefully
with fish in it. When it comes up a number of egrets eagerly fly in and pick
off as many fish as possible. We watched the nets being pulled up a couple of
times, and didn’t see a whole lot of fish. It seemed to me that the area was
over fished, and the nets are not easily relocated. We also watched the
fishermen mending nets and displaying their catch, which sadly also including a
number of baby, one foot long sharks.
Our last stop was at St. Francis Catholic Church which
was originally built by the Portuguese and famously holds the tomb of Vasco Da
Gamma, the first explorer to sail around Africa. He died here of gonorrhoea.
His body was later exhumed by his son and repatriated to Portugal. However, the
original tombstone is still here. The church was made into a Protestant church,
was later destroyed and then rebuilt by the British.
After that we stopped at the Loafers Lounge for a
snack. Then the women wanted to stay in the area to shop and John and I went
back on the bus with Thoufeeqm to get away from the 37 degree heat. We had
lunch at a restaurant near our hotel called Ceylon and then crossed the street
to go the Cocoa Café for a coffee and a sticky date pudding. We returned to the
hotel and caught up on some e-mails before meeting Thoufeeq again in the lobby
to go back to the same area to see a cultural dance presentation. This was very
different from Sri Lanka and was actually more like Bali, with lots of face
makeup and facial gestures. The first twenty minutes was just one guy sitting
on a chair and making facial and eye gestures to reflect different emotions to the
beat of a drummer. The second section was two performers acting out a small
part of an apparently long Hindu drama. It too was all facial gestures and no
dialogue at all. Very strange.
Then we went to a local restaurant and I had a
delicious prawn in a tomato sauce dinner with coconut rice. Then back to the hotel by
our bus for the night.
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