Look before you cross!
Victoria Valley
The narrow one lane road.
The view from the Baroka Lookout: Lake Bellfield and the town of Halls Gap.
The Balconies and people risking their lives.
MacKenzie Falls.
Lake Wartook
Sunday,
April 24th.
Woke
up about seven to the cacophony of cockatoos! Had breakfast at the
motel and discovered that there was a motorcycle tour group staying
here and heading out this morning. Can you imagine how green I was? I
talked to the organizer and told me that they rent bikes too. So I
got his card for a possible future trip and a map of a more scenic
route home.
After
checking out I drove through town looking for a place to stay
tonight. Everything was still booked up but I check a hostel on the
edge of town and secured a private room for $80.
With
that sorted, I decided to drive the Grampian Road from Halls Gap to
the southern end of the park, a town called Dunkeld. It was about a
60 kilometre drive through some lovely forests and past mountain
vistas. I saw a red deer and her doe by the side of the road and a
wallaby as well. On the way back I took another loop through the
Victoria Valley. It was even more beautiful as I drove through the
flat valley, past farms of sheep and cows and beautiful iconic
Australian trees. It was about 30 kms from Dunkeld through the valley
back to the main park road. All of it is paved and most of it is one
lane only and if anyone comes the other way someone has to give way.
I decided that I am going to return to the Grampians in the future
and stay in Dunkeld and cycle this section of road. It would be a
lovely road to ride and very quiet. On the way back I stopped at the
reservoir that they call Lake Bellfield.
When
I got back to Halls Gap I decided to drive to a number of scenic
lookouts along Mount Difficult Road and Mount Victory Road. First I
went to the Boroka Lookout which gave a spectacular view of the
valley, Halls Gap and the Lake Bellfield from two viewing platforms.
From there I drove to the Reed Lookout, which is a forest fire
lookout tower that commands views of the entire area. I took a three
kilometre walk from there to the Balconies which provide another
amazing view of the valley on the other side from Halls Gap. After
that I drove to MacKenzie Falls where I met up with all of the
tourists in the park! The parking lot was jammed. I took the trail
two kilometres to an overlook of the falls before returning and
descending about three hundreds steps to the base of the falls. They
are very pretty even though it hasn't rained here in a long time.
Then I took a road that descended to Lake Wartook which is another
reservoir built in 1899. It was very scenic and I watched a family
fly fishing. From there I drove along a very narrow mountain road
with no shoulders or guardrails to something called the Zumsteins. I
had to find out what that was. It turned out to be the ruins of one
of the very first bush camp holiday retreat built by Walter Zumstein
and his wife in the 1930's. They built three 'rammed earth' cottages,
a swimming pool and a tennis court by the river. They lived there
until the last 1950's before they retired. When the National Park was
opened the retreat was closed and is now in ruin. Then I had to
retrace my steps back past all of those locations to Silverband Road
which took me down from the mountain back to Lake Bellfield and the
Grampian Road to return to Halls Gap.
I
drove to the hostel to check in and pick up my key. I saw two emus
feeding in the bush by the hostel. I was hungry and it was getting
dark and cool by this time, so I decided to treat myself again and to
eat at a local Punjabi Restaurant. I had a delicious meal of chicken tikka, and prawns in coconut and onion sauce with a Carleton Draft. Then I drove back to the
hostel for the night. This is a nice hostel, and they have a common room complete with fireplace, TV and DVD machine, a pool table and about eight terrariums full of Australian lizards and snakes! The young husband and wife who run it collect them. I had a nice private room where I went to type and then read. I am reading a book about an Australian pioneer.
I
drove a total of 226 kms today.
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