Friday, March 18, 2011

Istanbul, Dolmabahce Sarayi Palace


Friday March 18th
Today was overcast and drizzly. I decided to go the palace that I'd seen from the Bosphorus tour the other day. So, I took the tram to the end and then walked a bit from there. Turns out it is called Dolmabahce Sarayi Palace. The building is huge and fashioned after Versailles.
The Palace was ordered to be built by the Ottoman Empire's 31st Sultan, and built between 1843 and 1856. The construction cost the equivalent of 35 tonnes of gold. Fourteen tonnes of gold leaf were used to gild the ceilings of the 45, 000 sq metre palace, which stands on an area of 110,000 sq metres.
Previously, the Sultan and his family had lived at the Topkapi Palace, but as that was lacking in up to date luxury and style, he decided to build a new one. Whereas the Topkapi has exquisite examples of Iznik tiles and Ottoman carving, the new one contains much gold and crystal. It reflects more of a European influence.
The palace is divided into two large sections. The one part is the business side for administration of the Empire and meeting and housing dignitaries and guests. The other side is the Harem, which houses the Royal Family, including the Sultan, his mother, his four wives and all the concubines, eunuchs and servants (hundreds of them!).
When the Ottoman Empire went into decline, partly because of the opulence of this palace and the First World War, it became the summer residence of the first President of the Turkish Republic, the beloved Mustafa Ataturk. He died here from cancer in 1938. Now it's a museum and occasionally used for state functions.
The palace is amazing, beautiful, opulent, over the top. I especially loved the staircase and the Ceremonial Hall both of which are very beautiful. The ceiling of the hall has a dome on it that is painted to look 3D.
I was annoyed that you paid your money but they wouldn't let you take photos. I don't understand that. Sometimes they say flash damages things, but at least let us take photos without flash. Otherwise how do you remember what it looks like (and what do you put on the blog!?). I tried to take a few, but they didn't turn out too well and then I got caught. I went to the gift shop to see if they had any good postcards, but they weren't great. However, when I came back to the hotel I downloaded some from the internet – problem solved.
I walked back to the tram and then took the funicular back up the hill to Taksim Square and walked all along Istiklal Caddesi back to the Golden Horn, and the Spice Market. I went in and bought a small bag of Turkish Delight, which we have sampled this week. It is amazing, delicious and very fresh. Then back to the hotel for a bit.
Tonight I sat in the lobby and talked to two 70 year old Australian women who are backpacking! I met them the other day at breakfast. Then I went out for another rice pudding and drink.

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